About Watches &#8211; Gevril

The Shapes of Things to Come

So called smartwatches are appearing at an accelerated pace on the production lines of tech manufacturers and traditional watch manufacturers alike. Fueled by the desire to make headway into the market for new and different portable technology, each manufacturer hopes to be the first to design a device that consumers feel they actually need. But what should the ultimate smartwatch look like? The answer: it doesn’t matter, because function will dictate form.

The Latest Smartwatches

On January 1, 2015 Montblanc introduced its e-Strap, with smartwatch technology built into the strap rather than into the watch itself. Theoretically the e-Strap is interchangeable with all sorts of watches, and could therefore be classified as more of a smartwatch accessory. The e-Strap uses Bluetooth wireless technology to provide notifications and track physical activity in conjunction with a smartphone.

Montblanc E-Straps Adds Functionality to Luxury Watches

Other companies are opting to integrate smartwatch technology directly into more traditional looking cases, which may be an attractive compromise for people who want high-tech functionality but don’t want an unattractive gadget on their wrists. The Withings Activaté watch is a good example; it has a stainless steel case mounted on a fine leather strap, a Swiss made dial and a sapphire crystal. The Activaté is also compatible with a smartphone.

Withings Activaté Watches

And last year the world took note when Apple made its first foray into smartwatches with the introduction of the Apple Watch, a unique device that is at once totally futuristic in appearance but incorporates classic elements of watch design including high-end case finishing, interchangeable straps and an external crown. The Apple Watch rolls out this year and, no surprise, works exclusively with an iPhone.

Apple Smartwatches

Ambiguous Value Propositions

The one thing that all of the aforementioned examples have in common (along with the numerous other smartwatches on the market), is that their “smart” functions work only with a smartphone – the human race’s standard equipment in every demographic from pre-teen to septuagenarian. If the smartwatch is going to complement, let alone eclipse, the smartphone, it needs to work more independently or offer more meaningful enhancements.

Sure, there are tech-savvy people who will adopt smartwatches immediately; yes, there are purists who have no interest whatsoever in wearing a wrist computer; and yes, there are those in between who require a compelling reason to consider switching from what they already wear, or to wearing any watch at all.

Sony Smartwatch User

Current smartwatches offer few luxuries of convenience to drive anyone’s willingness to adopt them as mandatory equipment. Figuring out the value of the smartwatch to the consumer is therefore the obvious million-dollar question. Whatever the “ultimate” smartwatch does, be certain that this functionality will have a greater impact on dictating its shape than whether or not the device is 50 or 100 mm wide. Ultimately, the decision to wear a smartwatch is about function, not form.

Function First

Companies like HYT, MB&F and Urwerk already produce mechanical watches that stretch the imagination about how a watch looks and displays time. Some of the watches by these companies are impractical and all of them are exclusive and expensive, but they do indicate that people have an inherent interest in new shapes, sizes and designs if the device’s purpose is clear – all of the watches by these companies are high-end timepieces designed to tell time and appeal to their respective audience.

HYT Watch

Once there is a smartwatch with a clear purpose that offers essential advantages to the wearer, fashion will adopt the form and people will make the shape – whatever it is – fit within their daily lives, just like smartphones. The bottom line is: first, create something that people need and then experiment and refine the shape and style.

Maybe designing a strap to attach a smartphone to the wrist is a smarter approach than trying to transform the smartphone into some type of wrist device; maybe shirts with custom sleeve lengths to accommodate such a smartphone strap will become commonplace. We’ll find out soon enough.

About Gevril Group

Gevril Group, watchmaker and wholesale watch distributor, is the exclusive U.S. agent for exquisitely designed and crafted European luxury and fashion watch brands, distributing and servicing some of the best affordable luxury and Swiss watches and trendy fashion watches. Gevril Group also operates a full-service watch repair, staffed by master Swiss watchmakers. Contact Gevril Group by email or by calling 845-425-9882.

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn. Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog.

Forget About Tourbillons! Watch Aficionados Finally Embrace Technology

Thu, 24 Apr 2014 16:33:33 +0000

A Brief History of High-Tech Watches

There have been high-tech timepieces for almost as long as there have been advancements in technology. First to become popular in the early 1970’s were watches that displayed the time using LED diodes like the Hamilton Pulsar worn by Roger Moore in “Live and Let Die.” Later, calculator watches, fitness watches, and hiking and adventure watches became popular for a time.

Although some of these timepieces are still prized by collectors, very few were ever taken seriously by watch aficionados. Sophisticated watch fans have always preferred the precision gears, jeweled bearings, and tiny springs found in traditional mechanical movements.

The love of old world craftsmanship is still strong, but there is a new appreciation for technology among fans of luxury timepieces. High-tech timepieces are finally beginning to be taken seriously.

A New Generation of High Tech Watches

The current crop of high-tech timepieces has caught the attention of prestigious watch journals and sophisticated fans with their unique combination of great design, superb craftsmanship, and advanced features. Watches like the Casio Pro Trek PRW6000, the Seiko Astron, and the Citizen Skyhawk AT are getting rave reviews by offering battery-free solar power, atomic clock accuracy, and sophisticated chronograph features in a beautiful, well-designed package that rivals the best high-end mechanical watches.

In a world where your cell phone and computer always display the correct time to the exact second, many younger watch aficionados are starting to expect the same type of accuracy from the watch on their wrist. Unlike earlier generations of technology watches that displayed their information in an ugly plastic case, the latest high-tech watches are beautifully crafted masterpieces.

Seiko’s Foresight and Continuing Excellence

When Seiko introduced the Astron, the first commercially available quartz timepiece in 1969, they said “Someday, all watches will be made this way.” Now Seiko is saying the same thing about a brand new Astron. This amazing timepiece, housed in a stylish titanium case, is powered by the sun, automatically adjusts to the time zone you’re in using GPS satellite signals, and features a perpetual calendar that is always correct until February 28, 2100.

The Astron recognizes all 39 of the world’s time zones by determining its current location using GPS, then comparing that information with an onboard database that divides the Earth’s surface into one million squares, each of which is assigned to a particular time zone. This is something even $100,000 mechanical watches can’t do. Even the most sophisticated mechanical watch will only display 37 time zones with a manual reset.

High-Tech Watch Popularity Continues to Grow

Less expensive high tech watches like the Casio Pro Trek PRW6000 and Citizen Skyhawk AT use radio signals from an atomic clock instead of GPS satellites to maintain split-second accuracy. What they share with the Seiko Astron is great design and superbly crafted cases. Maybe that’s why they are showing up on the wrists of more and more sophisticated watch aficionados.

The latest generation of high-tech timepieces has raised the bar for all timepieces. When it becomes possible to provide more, people tend to expect more. There will always be a place for traditional mechanical timepieces, but these types of watches are already becoming fashion items instead of functional tools. Although the best mechanical watches are already just as collectible as a vintage Ferrari or couture gown, you might not be wearing one to work much longer. They are ultimately museum pieces. When you can wear a precisely crafted, impeccably styled timepiece that runs forever on solar power and tells you the exact time to the millisecond even if you are in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, why would you want to wear anything else?

About Gevril Group

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn.

Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog digest.

The Emerging Market for Chinese Made Luxury Goods

Mon, 14 Apr 2014 02:30:47 +0000

When Chinese Manufacturers Stop Copying and Start InnovatingChina became a global manufacturing powerhouse largely by copying the ideas of others. The Chinese became experts at creating knock-offs of popular brands and the copies became so good that the luxury labels they copied began manufacturing their own products in China as well. Now, practically every major brand manufacturers many of their products in China.

The tremendous demand for China’s ability to manufacture almost anything less expensively than their competitors in other countries has created a large and increasingly wealthy Chinese middle class. These newly affluent Chinese quickly developed an appetite for luxury and began buying the most popular high-end labels from around the world. As Chinese sophistication and buying power continued to increase, some Chinese designers began wondering why China couldn’t create their own high quality luxury goods.

Chinese pride, a booming economy, and the rise of Chinese creativity, has created a growing demand for products that are not only manufactured in China, but designed there as well. Chinese fashionistas are no longer flocking to the West for the latest trends. They are turning to exciting original collections by a new generation of emerging Chinese designers instead. Designers like Uma Wang have already been profiled in Italian Vogue. Chinese designer Qiu Hao was a recent Woolmark Prize winner, a prize that was previously reserved for European luminaries like Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.

Chinese Develop Luxury Taste Buds

Everywhere you look, the Chinese are making the transition from fashion followers to emerging tastemakers. The huge changes in tastes and attitudes of the growing Chinese middle class has created opportunities for a new generation of talented Chinese designers who are extremely proud of the “made in China” label. These designers are not satisfied with creating knock-offs. They are determined to be the best on the world stage.

“My heritage is full of beautiful craftsmanship and history with a strong understanding of femininity and luxury,” says influential Chinese designer Huishan Zhang. “It is only a matter of time before the avant-garde taste for individuality in China further evolves into a ‘Made in China,’ homegrown style that will be applauded at home and abroad.”

Luxury Watch Manufacturing in China

Chinese watchmakers were quick to recognize the almost insatiable demand for tourbillon movements by their Chinese customers. About 15 years ago, they decided to meet this demand by manufacturing their own tourbillons. As their expertise in manufacturing tourbillon movements grew, the reputation of their intricate timepieces grew among the world’s watch aficionados. Now, the demand for a Chinese made tourbillon timepiece is almost as high outside China as it is among the Chinese.

High quality Chinese-designed watches and clothing are relatively new to the global market but are growing in importance every day. The Chinese have become self-aware and are proud of their heritage and skills. They no longer are satisfied to make economical goods for the rest of the world. They are determined to design and create the world’s best products and have customers comes to them.

China Produces Its Own Luxury Watch Brands

The Chinese love wristwatches and Chinese watch manufactures have already made the transition to producing high quality luxury products of their own. Although every major watch manufacturer has manufacturing facilities in China, the Chinese are doing something that none of them expected. They are no longer satisfied with copying and are starting to produce their own high quality timepieces filled with genuine homegrown innovation.

The Chinese Fiyta Spacemaster timepiece is prized by collectors around the world and has a reputation that puts it in the same league with popular Fortis and Omega space watches. The limited edition Spacemaster features a superb mechanical moment of Chinese design and includes innovations like an anti-clockwise locking crown to prevent accidental crown release and a unique 8-hour rotating bezel that serves as a life support indicator for the Chinese Feitian EVA spacesuit. Chinese Taikonauts wear this watch on space missions and a growing number of sophisticated collectors are starting to wear them as well.

The Future of China’s Growing Luxury Market

The emergence of Chinese creativity and a new appreciation for Chinese excellence has implications for every manufacturer of luxury goods. The world has already seen the power of the Chinese economy. When the Chinese turn their energies to producing top-quality, original designs, the world better watch out. The Chinese are already learning, as the Europeans and Americans did before them, that creativity is the key to homegrown success. Combine China’s emerging appreciation for the role of creativity with China’s proven manufacturing prowess and you’ve got the recipe for a true luxury powerhouse.

Will “China made” eventually replace “Swiss made” on the dial of your favorite timepiece? Only time will tell.

About Gevril Group

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn.

Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog digest.

5 Reasons Why Every Millennial Needs a Good Watch

Mon, 07 Apr 2014 22:34:38 +0000

by Bonnie McEwan

When Your Phone Is Not Enough

Picture a classroom full of undergraduates at one of New York City’s progressive universities. Everyone in the room is of the Millennial Generation, which means they were born between 1982 and 2000. Most students are about 19 years old. Many are hoping to snare summer internships in the city’s fashion, financial or professional service sectors.

The professor has forgotten her watch and, unaware that she is about to show her age, asks for the time by saying, “Does anyone have a watch?” Several students pull out their smart phones and call out the time. “We have our phones,” someone says, “not watches.” It turns out that, of 25 students, only one is wearing a watch. This is more than just a sign of the times. For aspiring Millennials, it’s a lost opportunity.

Here are five reasons why every Millennial should have a good watch:

1) A watch is functional and easy to access. With just a twist of your wrist you learn the time and, depending on what brand you choose, perhaps the current phase of the moon or how many seconds it took you to chase after that cross town bus. No rummaging around in your pocket or backpack for a phone. No moving through multiple screens before you can simply find out what time it is.

2) A watch makes a statement. It signals what kind of person you are — a focused minimalist (Johan Eric); a fashion-forward creative (Versus Versace); an athletic executive (GV2). An interesting watch is a conversation starter. It gives little hints about your unique blend of professionalism and personality. A watch is distinctive.

Johan Eric Vejle	Versus Miami	GV2 Grande

Click to Enlarge Image	Click to Enlarge Image	Click to Enlarge Image

3) A good watch is a fashion accessory. You can change watches to match outfits. Watches offer thousands of options and features for you to choose from. Colors, shapes, dials, metals, leather, diamonds, solar, atomic, bangles and buttons, in just about any combination you can imagine. Meanwhile, everyone’s phones look pretty much the same.

4) Watches signal achievement. They say you got that great job. Passed the bar. Made it to an office with a real door that closes. A good watch is a gift worthy of marking an occasion. Engrave it, treasure it, wear it as an emblem of success.

5) A quality watch becomes a family heirloom. If you’re lucky, you inherit one from your grandfather. If not, start your own tradition by investing in a watch you love that you can pass down to your children. Watches get better with time, but nobody hands down an old smartphone.

There’s one other big advantage of a watch over a phone. Watchmakers don’t take their customers hostage with a two-year contract. They don’t send you a bill every month and no matter how much you use your watch, there will never be any overage charges.

About Gevril Group

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn.

Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog digest.

Will Swatch Sistem51 Revolutionize the Watch Industry or Be Rejected by It?

Wed, 02 Apr 2014 21:57:10 +0000

Is the watch world ready for a super accurate, maintenance free, “Swiss made” mechanical timepiece that is mass-produced with only 51 parts?

Thirty years ago Swatch revolutionized the watch industry with the introduction of the world’s first line of stylish, inexpensive quartz watches. Now, many say they’ve turned the world upside down again with the introduction of the world’s first high quality, all-mechanical movement assembled entirely by machine.

The innovative Swatch Sistem51 is unlike any mechanical watch ever made. There are only 51 components, compared to over 600 in most modern mechanical watches. The assembly of this watch has been 100% automated, using high-tech robots to weld together the individual components to create a single assembly centered on one screw. This unique timepiece has no regulator and is adjusted for life at the factory using a laser. The all-mechanical movement features a 90-hour power reserve and is hermetically sealed so that no moisture, dust or foreign objects can enter the watch or interfere with its operation.

Swatch Sistem51 Red		Swatch Sistem51 White

Click to Enlarge Image		Click to Enlarge Image

The watch is 100% Swiss made, is self-lubricating, and is accurate to 5 seconds a day. Typically a Swiss made mechanical watch with these specifications will cost thousands of dollars, but the Sistem51 is expected to retail for less than $100. This mass-produced mechanical marvel is made using a special alloy of copper, nickel and zinc. It is non-magnetic, so the movement will never need adjusting. Since all the components are attached using a single screw, there is very little wear and tear.

Is There a Demand?

The big question now is whether there is a market for such a watch. Although extremely reliable and accurate, it has none of the snob appeal of its pricy handmade Swiss cousins. The Sistem51 is more expensive than equivalent Swatch quartz watches, yet offers far fewer features than the latest generation of “smart watches” that are starting to hit the market.

What the Swatch Sistem51 does offer is a super accurate, extremely reliable, all mechanical Swiss made movement in an inexpensive plastic case. Like any Swatch design, the Sistem51 can be easily customized with an unlimited number of color variations and face designs. Although the innovative watch has received wide praise for it’s technological innovations, it remains to be seen whether it will be commercially viable.

Does the market really want an inexpensive all-mechanical watch, or will people continue to prefer the exclusivity of handmade mechanical timepieces costing thousands more? Since the technology itself is revolutionary, it would not be surprising to see Swatch incorporate the new movement in some of its own high-end brands. Will there eventually be an Omega, Breguet, or Blancpain watch with a Sistem51 movement? Only time will tell.

Potential Game-Changer

The Japanese and Chinese already offer a wide variety of affordable mechanical timepieces. Currently however, when a watch says Swiss made on the dial, it is usually quite expensive. The breakthrough Sistem51 design might change all that.

If the Sistem51 design turns out to be as reliable as has been initially claimed, it could even cut into the sale of quartz watches. Why would people want to keep changing batteries when they could get a high quality self-winding mechanical watch for the same price?

Although the Swatch Sistem51 was introduced over a year ago at Baselworld 2013, it has only recently become available in retail markets. As people begin to discover this revolutionary new design, it could have a major impact on the entire watch industry. Nobody denies that this watch is a breakthrough. The only uncertainty at this point is whether it will be a commercial success.

About Gevril Group

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn.

Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog digest.

The 3 Most Popular Watch Bezel Types

Sun, 30 Mar 2014 18:57:19 +0000

Fortis B-42 Marinemaster Chronograph

Interval meters, dive and GMT: The most popular types of watch bezels

One watch component that is referenced regularly is the bezel – a rim attached to the case and surrounding the dial that usually serves the purpose of holding the watch crystal in place.

At its simplest, the bezel is an unadorned ring, usually made from the same material as the watch case. Other bezels are decorated with inset gems or ornamental stones. Some even achieve iconic status because of their unmistakable shape and brilliant design – just look at the Royal Oak and others designed by the inimitable Gerald Genta.

Given the conspicuous position of the bezel on the front side of the watch, it also provides a convenient area to assign other useful tasks.

Interval Meters

A bezel is a great place to put markings for a chronograph interval meter. The most common of these is a tachymeter, which is typically used to calculate speed over a distance. The Fortis Official Cosmonauts Chronograph employs a tachymeter on the bezel. Other variations of interval meters include telemetric (to measure the speed of sound) and pulsimetric (to measure a pulse). A more thorough explanation of all three is here.

A rarer bezel in this category is the aviation-themed “slide rule” or “calculator rule.” Ferragamo features one on these on the Ferragamo F-80 Pilot. The bezel works in conjunction with the flange and interior markings for use as a pilot’s tool to calculate various operations including speed and fuel consumption. Learn about how to use one here.

Fortis Official Cosmonauts Chronograph		Ferragamo F-80 Pilot

Dive Watch Bezels

The most recognizable bezel of all is the dive bezel. The look is so popular that some brands incorporate it into watches as a non-functional design element. A dive bezel has a 60-minute scale, usually with large markers at the five-minute increments and smaller markers at the one-minute increments (at least between 15 and zero). The zero position is usually marked by an arrow and a luminous dot. The Fortis B-42 Marinemaster Chronograph employs a dive bezel of this description.

Fortis B-47 World Timer GMT

Originally designed to monitor elapsed time underwater, dive bezels can also be used in more practical scenarios like monitoring how much time is left in a parking meter or when to flip a steak on the barbecue. When used in scuba diving, the countdown measurement is a matter of life and death since divers use it to track how much oxygen remains in their tank*. A genuine dive bezel is unidirectional, i.e., it rotates in one direction only (counterclockwise) so if it moves, it will signify less air in the tank, meaning the worst case scenario is the diver surfaces with leftover oxygen. If it were to move in the opposite direction, the diver might think he or she has more time than oxygen remaining in the tank.

*Note: Most divers now rely on a dive computer rather than a dive bezel.

GMT and World Time Bezels

Another familiar bezel is the bidirectional GMT, usually with 24-hour markings. The bezel can be used in a few ways: one, to track a second time zone in conjunction with a dedicated GMT hand; to establish whether it is daytime or nighttime in that corresponding time zone; or to follow a third time zone altogether. A GMT watch is a favorite among pilots who regularly travel between time zones. For a detailed explanation visit this web page.

A variation of the GMT bezel is the world-time bezel, which displays the names of world cities. To use it, set the local time on the watch and turn the bezel to match the current city name with the local time using the 24-hour track – the times in all of the other cities now appear concurrently on the 24-hour track. The Fortis B-47 World Timer GMT has a world-time bezel (the watch also displays a second time zone by way of a rotating middle disk).

Other types of bezels will surely emerge as watch design evolves. The new RM 60-01 by Richard Mille, for example, has a rotating bezel with a compass. But whether you prefer the simplicity of a watch with nothing more than a traditional unadorned bezel, or something bejeweled in colorful stones, or a purpose-built dive bezel, the abundant options are part of what makes watch collecting so enjoyable.

About Gevril Group

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn.

Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog digest.

The Evolution of Watch Case Shapes

Thu, 06 Mar 2014 19:47:22 +0000

Cartier’s Tank Released in 1917

Taking Shape: Watch Case Basics

A watch case, simply described, is a container that houses a watch’s significant components: namely, the movement and its many parts. The case protects these vital workings from dust and moisture, and it assists in shielding the movement from the bumps of daily wear.

From this simple purpose, the watch case evolved into more than a protective shell. Through innovation, watchmakers found reliable and efficient solutions to deal with the elements, and so they turned more attention toward perfecting case-finishing techniques – the sort of detail-oriented work that, at one time, was limited to movement decoration.

In The Beginning

By default, the earliest wristwatch cases were round – round because that was the shape of pocket watches, and when watches made the transition from pocket to wrist, they were merely pocket watches fashioned into wristwatches. Round is still the most ubiquitous shape as it provides the best space to display analog configurations.

Besides round, the most common case shape is rectangular. Popular variations include tonneau (barrel shaped) and cushion (pillow shaped or rounded square). Some watchmakers go in completely new directions – check out the asymmetrical Hamilton Ventura or any watch by the brand MB&F – but in general, most watch cases are based on one of the two rudimentary forms.

Round Shaped Versace DV One	Tonneau Shaped Louis Erard GMT	Cushion Shaped Viceroy Communion

Click to Enlarge Image	Click to Enlarge Image	Click to Enlarge Image

Some watch cases are icons in their own right. The innovative Rolex Oyster is known the world over; Cartier’s Tank, released in 1917, is unmistakable, as is the legendary Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Every watch brand hopes to achieve this sort of lasting success – great design, after all, never goes out of style.

Gold and Titanium Ferragamo Men’s F-80 with Diamonds

The Modern Era

While case shapes remain more or less consistent, size is on the rise. Contemporary watches are quite large, around 42 mm in diameter on average. By comparison, watches of the mid-20th century usually maxed out at around 34 mm. Now it is not uncommon to see watches that are 45 mm or larger.

Cases were originally made from metals, especially steel and gold. Today, plastic is used to make a majority of watch cases, since it is durable, lightweight and inexpensive. Applied coatings such as PVD, DLC and IP are also popular. For higher-end watches, stainless steel is the standard along with an array of precious metals, unique alloys – and even ceramic. Watch cases made from prized metals such as gold or platinum are more exclusive and therefore more expensive.

Day Date Complication
Fortis B-42 Automatic 647-10-11 M

Excluding mechanical watch collectors and other purists who treasure the centuries-old practice of watch-movement decoration, the appearance of the case is, for many, the reason to buy a watch, since watches today are for fashion as well as function. And while it may be difficult to imagine a new shape finding a permanent place in the watch spectrum (and on our wrists), it is perhaps more rash to underestimate that our forward-zooming, information-toting selves won’t find need or want of something else in the ongoing quest to be original and to stay one step ahead.

About Gevril Group

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn.

Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog digest.

Watch Complications Simplified

Mon, 10 Feb 2014 22:03:55 +0000

by Marc Shaffer

A watch’s primary purpose is to tell time, and some watches do precisely that — and no more. Watches that display hours and minutes are called two-hand models, because they have two hands. Watches that also have a second hand are referred to as three-hand models.

However, many watches exist that do more than just tell time, and the additional functions these watches perform are called complications.

Common Types of Watch Complications

Day and Date: The most common watch complication is the date window. Date windows can be situated in various positions on a watch’s dial. Most people are used to seeing date windows at the 3 o’clock, but today’s watches can have them at almost any position on the dial. Some watches use a “Cyclops” or magnifier so that the date is easier to read on smaller dials. Another complication allows for both a day and date to appear on the dial.

Calendar: While many watches display the date, there are some watches with a very special complication called a perpetual calendar. The perpetual calendar is the most complex type of calendar feature to exist on a watch. This calendar accurately displays the date, day, month, and year, and even takes into account leap years. However, perpetual calendar watches will require correction in 2100, which will not be a leap year.

Chronograph: Another complication frequently seen is the chronograph, which in layman terms means that the manufacturer has added a stopwatch to the timepiece. Normally a chronograph is controlled by a start/stop button and a reset button. Most chronographs have small subdials incorporated in the main dial that keep track of tenths of seconds, minutes, or hours for the stopwatch function.

Power Reserve Indicator: A power reserve indicator placed on the dial of the watch displays the run time remaining before the watch needs to be rewound. You would normally see these on mechanical or automatic watches. Quartz watches use a different complication to indicate that a watch’s battery is running down. The second hand will start to move in two-second intervals when it’s time for a battery change.

Chronograph Complication Calibre Buffalo SC-4B1-04-001		Power Reserve Complication Louis Erard Excellence 53230AA11

Click to Enlarge Image		Click to Enlarge Image

GMT Hand: Many modern watches utilize a second hour hand, that is used to display time in a second time zone. This complication is referred to as a GMT hand. GMT refers to Greenwich Mean Time, as the original function was created in order to offer pilots a fixed time zone reference while flying between time zones. Today, this is a fabulous watch complication for frequent travelers.

Moon Phase: Luxury watches include complications like moon phase indicators and minute repeaters. The moon phase complication shows if the moon is full, half, quarter or new. Originally, the moon phase was used by sailors to gauge tides.

GMT Complication Versace V-Race 29G70D001 S070		Moon Phase Complication Gevril GV2 XO Submarine 4511

Click to Enlarge Image		Click to Enlarge Image

Minute Repeater: A minute repeater is a movement that will chime out the time when a lever on the side of the case is activated. This was a fairly common complication for pocket watches during the 18th and 19th centuries

Certain style of watches tend to use specific complications. For instance, pilot watches tend to have fancy bezels that act as flight computers. Dive watches feature Helium release valves to release the pressure following deep water dives.

Cost Implications of Watch Complications

Adding complications to a watch is expensive. The movement modules need to be designed to operate both the timing mechanism and the watch’s complications. Therefore, you tend to see complications on higher end mechanical and automatic movements. (For the record, the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 has 33 complications, using a total of 1728 parts.) However, quartz movements make adding complications much more affordable.

The next time you look at a watch you may see that it does more than just tell time. It may not do as many things as your cellphone, but it looks a whole lot better on your wrist.

About Gevril Group

Watchmaker and wholesale watch distributor Gevril Group is the exclusive U.S. agent for exquisitely designed and crafted European luxury and fashion watch brands, distributing and servicing some of the best affordable luxury, Swiss and fashion watches. Gevril Group also operates a full-service watch repair, staffed by master Swiss watchmakers. Contact Gevril Group by email or by calling 845-425-9882.

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn. Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog.

History of Water Resistance in Watches

Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:20:29 +0000

From Oyster to Ocean Floor: A Brief History of Water-Resistant Watches

Watch lovers are a neurotic bunch. It makes sense: when you’re passionate about miniature mechanical or electronic engines encased in polished metals that often cost in the hundreds or thousands of dollars, there’s a lot to be persnickety about. Water resistance is one of those particulars.

Water – along with dust, shocks and magnetism – is one of the oldest adversaries of the wristwatch. Shock absorption has been mastered to a great degree and magnetizing a watch is still a relatively rare occurrence, but sealing a watch from dust and moisture is as relevant as ever; water, especially, can do serious damage to a watch movement. Here’s an overview of how water resistance developed over the course of the 20th century.

Hans Wilsdorf and the Rolex Oyster

The forefather of water-resistant watches is none other than Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, which introduced the first truly water-resistant watch in 1927 – the Rolex Oyster. The crucial inventions that led to the Oyster, however, were conceived of by others.

Swiss watchmaker François Borgel patented a threaded screw-back case system in 1891 that would become the basis of the Rolex Oyster. Borgel’s design involved fitting the dial and movement into a threaded carrier ring; the bezel and crystal also mounted onto the carrier ring, and the entire assembly then screwed into the case frame from the front. The design significantly reduced the ability of dust and water to enter the case and was a huge improvement over common hinged or snap-on backs and bezels.

By the early 1920s, many companies were using the Borgel design. But in terms of meaningful water resistance, the his design still had one serious flaw: the stem opening (where the winding stem and crown attach), unlike the screw-back case, was not adequately sealed. That is until 1925, when two Swiss watchmakers by the names of Paul Perregaux and Georges Peret patented a screw-down stem system.

Wilsdorf recognized that the two innovations together were the solution to creating a genuinely water-resistant watch case. He negotiated the purchase of Perregaux’s and Peret’s patent in 1926 and combined it with Borgel’s hermetically sealed case design and a fitted crystal. The result was the Rolex Oyster – so named for the fact that it could remain in water without being damaged – like an oyster. The concept remains the paradigm for water-resistant watch cases to this day.

The Oyster design became a huge commercial success thanks in part to Wilsdorf’s marketing prowess. During the summer of 1927 a London secretary named Mercedes Gleitze swam across the English Channel with an unlikely companion: she wore a Rolex Oyster on her wrist. The watch survived the journey, remained watertight and kept time for the duration of the roughly fifteen-hour swim to Calais in France. Wilsdorf followed up by buying the entire front page of the Daily Mail to announce the accomplishment. The headline read: “Rolex introduces for the first time the greatest Triumph in Watch-making ‘ROLEX OYSTER’ The Wonder Watch that Defies the Elements.” The publicity helped launched Rolex as a global brand.

Mercedes Gleitze Swimming the Channel		Mercedes Gleitze’s Rolex Oyster

Click to Enlarge Image		Click to Enlarge Image

The Next Wave

By the 1930s other companies were trying their hand at water-resistant watches. They included a watch designed by Cartier for the Pasha of Marrakesh with a specially designed screw-down crown (and later inspired the watches of the current Pasha collection), as well as the Omega Marine, which featured a case within a case. Companies also began introducing gaskets as part of systems to improve water resistance for a reasonable cost. In the early 1940s, for example, Fortis marketed its first waterproof automatic wristwatch called the Fortissimo.

Fortis Fortissimo		Omega Marine

But for the most part, water-resistant watches were still viewed as tools for specialists. During the Second World War, several highly water resistant diver’s watches were introduced for use by military frogmen. These watches were usually quite large for the purpose of being legible underwater and often featured bulky systems to seal the crown and stem. The Italian company Panerai, for example, supplied Italy’s navy frogmen with large dive watches and underwater compasses (early Panerai watches used Rolex movements). Panerai later patented an iconic pressure-lever crown that is still in use today. Nonetheless, at the time, these early dive watches were too large and impractical for general use.

The Wristwatch Goes Deep

The proliferation of the modern dive watch can also be traced back to Rolex and its introduction of the iconic Submariner in 1953. The original Submariner was water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters/330 feet and its design was an instant success. It wasn’t the first dive watch designed for daily wear, but it was the first commercially successful one. It also introduced the unidirectional dive bezel for measuring elapsed time that is so commonly associated with dive watches today.

Some argue that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dive watch predated the Submariner (by a matter of months), which may be true, but the popularity and influence of the Submariner is unparalleled. Thanks to these and others, the modern dive watch category is hugely popular today.

Water Resistance Today – There is No Such Thing as Too Deep

Today, adequate water resistance is expected; after all, the average quartz watch is built to handle the occasional dip in the pool or accidental submersion and, in the case of mechanical watches, there are tons of sport-watch options that have suitable water-resistance ratings for general immersion. (To learn more about general water resistance, read Mechanical Watch Water Resistance).

In addition, our human obsession with over-engineering drives us to try and surpass our previous bests, and so the importance of water resistance is often exaggerated. For example, thanks to the Submariner there are countless watches that can withstand submersion to depths in the hundreds and thousands of feet – depths at which few people, if any, will ever go – when really all that most people will ever need is a watch that can withstand a tropical storm or a leisurely swim at a whopping depth of, perhaps, 15 feet.

Needless to say, whatever demands your profession or lifestyle put on you to go deeper, there is a watch that will serve you ably from the shallowest pool to the ocean’s depths.

About Gevril Group

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn.

Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog digest.

The 7 Essentials for Fine Watch Maintenance

Wed, 16 May 2012 23:58:48 +0000